Gamesmith Community!

So it’s been a while since I last posted and I’ve been busy helping out with the launch of a new games community aimed at game devs, Gamesmith.

What makes this different from all the other communities?

Anyone who joins are vetted to be verified game dev before they get access to the full features.

So what’s there?¬†

The community forum, a place to discuss the industry knowing you’re talking to your industry peers. If you want to discuss something that you don’t want tied to your name, there’s the ability to post anonymously with the click of a button, so you can talk about company work life balance, or ask about a new job opportunity without anyone else knowing etc. We have had a thousand developers sign up and get access in the last few weeks and growing quickly!

We do have a open part of the forum for general chit chat called “Game Chat“, anyone can post here but unless you’re a verified dev, they can’t see other parts of the community forums.

There is also the Jobs Board, which is also growing and has around 200 jobs listed currently, from over 20 different companies across the US and Europe. Applying for a job goes direct to the hiring manager. They like it because they know they’re getting a verified, vetted developer, which has already weeded out a lot of the noise from the wannabe’s.

Who’s allowed in?

Part of the requirements is that someone has released a title, whether it be a big time game from a large studio or publisher, to a small indie studio through iOS or Google Play etc. We also know that some people may have worked on countless projects that may never have seen gold, so if we can verify you have contributed significantly to a project, you’re in too!

Students and interns aren’t allowed in, but come back with some experience and you’ll be welcomed, until then, you can enjoy our open chat part of the community here.

A former dev that has moved into another industry or gone into education? You’re allowed in too. Your experience is just as relevant.

Come and follow us on:

Gamesmith Website




Gamesmith Blog

The New Fruit and Veg Snack?

GoGo Squeez

GoGo Squeez

GoGo Squeez Fruit and Veg snack pouches. We got this set free from BzzAgent and this particular one consists of apple, pear and carrots and went down a hit with the kids which is impressive as they’re not big fans of pears. We had tried a different flavour before getting these and using the coupons we’ve received from this to try other flavours, they have all been a hit.

The kids just don’t realise that they have vegetables in them and they’re also relatively healthy, not filled with junk or an insane amount of sugar. Taste wise, not to much different to the regular fruit pouches.

Cost wise, they run around the $2.55 range for a 4 pack, about 5c more than the regular, plain, fruit versions so not to bad but you can keep an eye out and get a deal often as currently they’re reduced price at Target. They are also pretty easy to find, the only big grocery store we’ve not found these were in Wegmans, which is a shame as they carry the regular pouches. Also the bulk stores, like BJ’s only seem to carry the regular apple and cinnamon.

Another great feature of these is the large paddle style cap lid, which makes it very easy for little hands to open if you’re in the car and hand one over to the kids.

Go check them out, they’re great! ūüôā

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The new kids favourite snack?

We got this Reese’s peanut butter and chocolate spread as a free sample from Influenster and it’s been a bit hit with the kids.

I thought it was a bit gross when I heard about it but was pleasantly surprised as it’s not to sweet. The kids however have really loved it.

It has given new life to the old staple of ants on a log, using this, celery is now popular. They’ve enjoyed it with carrots, crackers and in a plain old sandwich. It’s also good whipped in with cream as a filling to a cookie sandwich.

Keep meaning to try it with bacon, but haven’t gotten that far yet. Worth trying out and willing be getting it again for the kids.

Home brew all grain in small batches in an apartment….

Home brewing a 1 gallon batch of beer in an apartment using all grain. This is how I do it and I realise it might not be the best way but it works well for me and I can get the brew day done in around 3 hours and yield around 10-15 12oz bottles that cost between $10-15 in raw materials, apart from the raspberry lambic, which was $25 but considering they tend to go for $6-10 a bottle, that’s still not bad.

I get all my supplies from Strange Brews, a local brew shop. They’re awesome for getting supplies as well as helping out with ideas, recipes and what to do and they’re pretty quick about answer questions through Twitter too.

I usually have an idea of what I want to brew and they help refine a recipe, or scale a 5 gallon recipe I find online down to a 1 gallon recipe and get the grains, which they crack and all the hops, yeast and anything else you might need.

The gear. I’m guessing most folks will have most of it because of some kit you got, using syrups and now you want to try all grain and would only need a few more bits and pieces.

SwissArmy Knife App – Free Android app, really handy timer as you can set 5 count down timers which is useful for mash brew time as well as keeping track of the hops.

Home Brew Calculators – Free Android app that I use to calculate the strike temps needed for the mash tun water. You want the water to hit the grains at whatever temp the recipe says, around 154F but the volume of grain and ambient temp will affect how much that water cools so you can calculate how to take that into account by putting in the target temp, the room temp, the volume of water and weight of grain and it tells you the temp you want the mash water to be, usually 10-20F higher than the target temp.

-Glass carboy – Ideally you want two or three. Two allows you to transfer the brew into a secondary ferment which tends to make for a cleaner beer and a good point to add in extra ingredients like chocolate nibs of fruit depending on the beer. Having a third carboy means you can get another brew on the go in the middle and then have that brew go into secondary using the first carboy. They’re pretty cheap, around $5 or bucks but the jugs are also used by Whole Foods for their fresh pressed apple cider and also for Carlo Rossi wines.

-Drilled bung – For sticking in the carboy.

-Air lock – For sticking in the bung, so things don’t explode.

-Tubes – For syphoning but also for the initial fermenting stage and a smaller one for the mash tun. Couple bucks from a local hardware store.

-Thermometer  РPretty obvious this.

-Funnel – For pouring your brew into carboy and bottles.

-Small strainer – Helps filter out hops and other lumps while you fill the carboy.

-Stirring rod – I use a slotted pasta spoon.

-Wire brush – Makes it easier to clean carboy of gunk around the bend of the neck.

-Kettle pots – I use a small spag pot and a larger 6-8Q spag pot.

-Sparging colander – This is to distribute the water evenly when you sparge. I use the one that came with one of the spag pots because it is flat, so the water spreads out nicely when you pour it in and it also fits perfectly on top of the cooler that’s the mash tun.

-Muslin bags – A large one for the grains, usually need 2 small ones for the hops and perhaps a third for anything else you might add to the boil.

-Large 2Q Pyrex measuring jug.

-Grolsch bottles – 3-4 15oz bottles for over flow brewing. It might not be advised but it works.

-Mash tun – Need this to hold the grains to get the wort and volume of liquid. Easily made for cheap.

This mash tun was made using a 2 gallon drinks cooler that was on sale for $10 and a square foot of aluminium window screen mesh that was a buck from a local hardware store, trimmed and folded to fit tightly around the inside of the cooler. It sits at the bottom to hold the grains in the grain bag to stop the grains from basically collapsing and bogging down at the bottom so that the liquid can drain through the spigot.

Now you’ve got all the gear together, it’s time to brew. Start by sterilising the stuff, which is pretty boring but necessary. I tend to do this the night before, before bed so everything has the chance to air dry on a towel and be ready to brew first thing in the morning.

That’s pretty much most of the gear ready to be sterilised. I start by taking off my rings so they don’t get stained and then chucking all the small things into the measuring jug with the cleaning solution, which can be bleach and water or something you buy. Give everything a few minutes before rinsing them off or whatever the instructions say and lay them out on a towel. Pour the solution into the mash tun/cooler and then plonk in the bigger pieces like the stirring rod. I then use the funnel to fill the carboy and move on to the spag pots afterwards.

Now it’s time to brew and follow the recipe you have. I fill the smaller of the two spag pots with the small amount of water for the mash which tends to be around 1.25Q per pound of grain, which works out to 2-3Q of water usually. Get the heat on and then fill the larger spag pot with the volume of water for the sparge, this is about a half gallon per pound of grain, so usually around 1-1.5G of water.

You only need to heat the mash water, in the smaller pot at this point and while that is going, which should take about 10-15 mins, you can fill the muslin sacks with the grain (don’t knot the end) and the smaller ones with the hops (do knot the ends) as you usually will use half at the boil for the bitterness and flavour and the second half for the aroma for the last 5-15 mins of the boil.

As I was brewing a chocolate orange porter, I had some chocolate nibs and orange peel in a third muslin bag for the last 5 mins of the boil.

Place the large grain bag into your mash tun and spread the bag over the top to keep it in place.

Once you’ve got your mash water up to temp, you want to evenly cover the grains in the water. I use the colander to help spread the water and after pouring half of it in, I use the stirrer to stir the grains to eliminate any dry patches and to get the best mash to wort conversion possible.

With all the mash water in the mash tun, put the lid on and start the first timer for an hour. The second spag pot with the main volume of water needs to be heated to 170F and while most of the brewing doesn’t have to be entirely exact, you don’t want this to be above 170F when you sparge or you’ll leach tannins which is the woody, bitter stuff from the grains. This will take 20-30 mins depending on how much water you have, so you can start this half way through waiting for the mash to convert the wort. If you’re doing a kit brew, this is probably where you’re at, with a small bit of grains in the bag for the wort and flavour and then about 15 mins in you’re adding the syrup. The next bit, where you sprage is what you do to create that syrup and volume of water, rather than adding water into the carboy at the end to get the desired volume.

So you’ve had your hour and now you collect the wort. The smaller tube connected to the mash tun spigot is helpful here as you pour the wort into the smaller spag pot. Once you’ve collected all the liquid, put the spag pot onto the cooker and get the heat on as you’ll add the sparged water wort as you go and this will save time getting to a boil.

You want to collect the wort slowly, for a gallon brew, this should be done over 20 mins as you are essentially washing the grains for the sugars and flavour. ¬†Pour the 170F water slowly over the colander bit at a time and drain, I collect it into the Pyrex measuring jug. Once the jug is full I pour that into the small spag pot as it all heats up. When that pot gets close to full, I pour the remaining water from the large pot into the mash tun. Put that pot on the cooker and pour all the liquid you’ve been heating into it and then use that smaller pot to collect the rest of the wort.

Once you’ve got all the liquid, you want it to hit a rapid boil and you want to keep an eye on it because just like using the syrups, they can foam up and boil over pretty quickly, so adjust the heat down a little if that happens.

This brew has the pot pretty close to the top, but usually it won’t be, so you can collect the liquid that drains from your grains and pour it into the pot. I usually put the spag spoon into the small spag pot and the grain bag on top so that any liquid drips to the bottom of the pot and is easy to pour. You don’t want to squeeze the grains or you’ll release the tannins you’ve been trying to avoid.

Now that your collection of liquid is boiling though, it’s time to drop in one of the small bags of muslin with half of the hops and start the second timer and this will usually be 20-30 mins, then add the aroma hops and get the third timer going and this will usually be 10-20 or so mins.

While this is going, you can get the kitchen sink set for the cooling bath and clean up some of the gear. I half fill one sink with cold water and use a few large bottles of ice to make a cold bath to speed the cooling of the brew after it’s had the boil.

This gives you plenty of room to put the pot in the sink without making a mess.

The aim is to cool the brew down as quickly as possible to avoid contamination and air getting to the brew. I fill the sink with small bottles of frozen water and constantly move them around the sink to disperse the heat and keep the water cool. When the ice in the bottles start to melt, I replace them with new ones. I find this better than using bags of ice because I then don’t have to lift the pot to get to the plug and drain the water as our sink doesn’t have an over flow. This speeds the cooling up nicely and usually doesn’t take more than 20-30 mins. Take the temp every few mins and stir the brew at the same time. You want the temp to get down to at least 80F so you don’t kill the yeast but the exact temp will depend on the yeast you use.

Now the brew is down to temp, it’s ready to fill the carboy. I use the funnel with a small strainer on top and a piece of muslin cloth as this helps to filter out any thing you added to the boil, but mostly the hops which is quite a thick gunk at this point. I use the measuring jug to begin with, filling that from the pot of brew and pouring into the carboy as I find it easier than trying to pour directly. Also makes it easier to stop, so you can rinse the cloth as it tends to clog up and this will make it easier to pour.

When you’ve got to the curved neck of the carboy, you can judge if you have to much liquid still in the pot. Folks are meant to pitch the excess down the drain I guess, but I don’t. I put the yeast into the carboy, then the bung on top to cover it and make it easier for me to shake the thing about and let it sit a few minutes.

I then use the funnel to pour some of the brew from the carboy into those optional Grolsch bottles, up to the label as you don’t want to fill them up as much as you would when bottling. Some times I need 2-4 bottles. Pop the cap on and set a side and then get back to filling the carboy.

Once the carboy is full, put the bung in and then the syphon tube, which you put the other end into a glass that’s half full of water. This stops air getting into the brew but also allows the spuge (krausen) to bubble out of the carboy, which is something that’ll happen in the next day or two and it beats having to clean the air lock and worry about sanitation.

You want the carboy to sit in a dark area that’s got a consistent warm temp, so a large cooler is good. I wrap the thing in a large towel and have it resting on a box beside the bed as you want it off the floor so it doesn’t get the cold into it and you want it stable so that sediment can sink to the bottom. If you’re doing the Grolsch over flow above, you want to make sure you then unseal the metal bit so that the lids are only sitting on the bottle. This allows the gas to escape and any foam. If you don’t, they could explode which is why this isn’t recommended, nor safe but I’ve had good success with it and feel it’s such a waste other wise. You might need to replace the glass of water in the morning or the evening if it gets full, so keep an eye on it before bed and when you get up.

After a couple of days, when the foam as stopped, you remove the tube and use the airlock as usual, filling it with water and putting that into the bung. At this point, you can seal up the bottles too, but you want to unseal them in the evening and when you wake up to allow the gases from the fermentation to escape.

A week later, you syphon the carboy contents into another, sanitised carboy for secondary fermentation. This is when you can add any additives like fruit and the benefit of a one gallon brew is that you only need a small handful of cherries to do a cherry wheat for instance, so you can use fresh and get great flavours without needing to use syrups so you know exactly what goes into your beer. Also this secondary helps give you a clearer beer when it comes to bottling. If you have a third carboy and have already got a batch that is in secondary, this is then a good time to then bottle that batch.

I normally leave the secondary for a couple of weeks but it can be finished in a week. You know when there’s no more bubbles coming out of the airlock and it’s all clear. I really can’t be bothered with a hydrometer test which would be more specific and give you a chance to calculate alcohol content though. Anyway, this way, the batch that has been bottled has had two weeks to carb and can go into the fridge, freeing up room to move the secondary into it’s space and a fresh new brew to get going to keep the cycle going.

I might go into the syphoning and bottling another time with a couple of tips I’ve picked up, but they’re pretty standard and if you’ve used a kit, the instructions should be the same.

A bit of Pugilist Movember Face care?

Pugilist Brand – I got the Pre-shave Oil and the Shaving Soap, both in the Citrus Grove scent.

I’ve a goatee, so I’m not really doing anything for Movember this year, but did fancy a treat when my shaving soap was about finished and I’ve had this a few weeks now.

The boring stuff first. Package arrived quickly, in a couple of days, as pictured, in a bubble wrap envelope with the oil in a ziplock bag and a plastic shrink wrap cover over the lid. The oil container didn’t have a pipette lid as the website pictures, but I don’t think that’s a problem. There’s also a receipt and thank you type note which is a nice touch.

The pre-shave oil, it’s lovely and does a great job of helping to improve the shaving experience. The scent is subtle, not to over powering like the few others that I have tried, this also applies nicely with just a few drops in the palm of your hand and rubbed onto your face, without leaving a slimy or sticky feel.

As I’m lazy and shave every other day, with a double edged blade, using Persona blades if anyone is interested, this product has been great. I’m not sure if it’s entirely needed if you’re shaving everyday and not a hairy monster mind, as the shaving soap is rather awesome. That said, a few weeks in and it hardly looks like I’ve made a dent in the bottle, so this should last quite a while so the initial cost shouldn’t seem all that bad at all.

The shaving soap, loved this too. It fits a standard shaving cup/container, mine happens to be an old Crabtree and Evelyn tub. This also has a nice, yet subtle citrus scent which isn’t over powering if you used a aftershave on top. This lathers up very easily and applies great. The lather doesn’t get overly bubbly and keeps it’s consistency on your skin for the duration of the shave, which is a balance I’ve not found in a few of the other soaps I’ve tried and something I really like about this. It’s nice to get a soft feeling lather, yet still be able to see what you’re doing when you shave. I’ve also yet to make a dent in this soap, so can see this lasting a long time too.

Another nice thing about both of these products seems to be the fairly minimalist ingredients used, sure it’s a soap and chemicals are needed, but these do not seem to have an entire chemists lab used in the make up that many of the commercial brands seem to be.

The real question is, do I venture into the other scents next time, or stick with this one, that’s just lovely and refreshing?

Smiley360 Tazo Chai Taster

Having been sent a few samples to try from Smiley360, I dived right in on the least appealing flavour of the trio which was caramel vanilla.

It did smell okay but it really tasted vile. Didn't have the nice spicy undertones and warm feeling that a chai tea should have.

I've had the second sample, which is the chocolate flavoured one and this is much nicer. Has a real chai taste with the spices about it with a nice hint of chocolate that isn't to over powering.

The last sample was "Classic". I found the classic chai flavour to be the nicest.

It just seems to work well both as a hot tea but also lovely as a chilled drink, that even the kids liked when served with a good shot of milk.
One thing that I consistently liked about the Tazo teabags is the quality of the bags and the ease of using them. The packets of tea leep the teabags nice and fresh, open easily with a rip along the top and the string/paper tag is nice and long to fit in your travel mug nicely and not fall it and the paper bit doesn't disintegrate like so many other brands do.
Worth a punt, especially the organic, classic.

Alternative to Wacom Stylus?

Dart Stylus?

Now that Wacom have released a bunch of different styluses for tablets, the Solo starting at $20 ranging up to the top of the line one at $70…there suddenly seems like a lot of choices one of which is the Dart, also $70 but this seems to work much better across various platforms.

Not one I’ve had the opportunity to try right now, but it’s something that should be on any digital artists radar looking for something with a bit more control to be used on various tablets who aren’t in the Cintiq budget.

Guardian Bug Spray without Deet!

I was given this Guardian bug spray as part of a Influenster free sample –¬†@Guardian Repels¬†/ #WeBeatDEET

A bunch of reviews can be found here. Guardian have a bunch of info on their Facebook page here.
This basically comes in two flavours, a 4 hour “back garden” variety or the one I got, a 8 hour “wilderness” variety.
I’ve had it a few weeks now and have used it on myself and the kids, 3 and 6 years old in quite a few hikes in and around the area, some of which are pretty mozzy intense spots and this has worked really well. I don’t know about the claim to last 8 hours but it certainly does last the afternoon of hiking and sweat.
The kids say it smells like¬†marshmallows, I think it has a slight citron smell about it. It’s neither¬†unpleasant but not¬†particularly¬†pleasant either, well it won’t replace your¬†deodorant. That said, it covers pretty well but has a oily kind of feel that’s quite shiny. Unlike other products that rely on deet, this seems to still work really well if you miss a spot. As it is quite oily though, I wouldn’t recommend spraying this anywhere near your car or if you’ve got glasses on, to take them off as it’s a mare to wipe up and you don’t want to be grabbing your phone straight after. The other issue with this is the dispenser, which works well when sprayed held out while level, but it really doesn’t like to spray when tilted over, especially on its side or upside down, making it a little tricky to spray around your ankles.
The other thing I’ve noticed, when using this at a park, it didn’t repel flying ants at all and it seemed to attract the bee’s. That said, you could see the mozzies coming towards you but never getting touching you. I can’t speak for ticks as I never noticed any where we hiked but I’ve not been bitten since using this.
It’s certainly over kill if you’re just playing out in the back garden, but then this particular spray isn’t meant for that and they have a weaker, 4 hour spray that is probably more suited.
One thing the label doesn’t mention that I noticed is how long this spray will last, there’s no use by date or recommendation to the shelf life of the product. For $7 on Amazon, it’s certainly worth getting though if you’re out and about a lot in the woods.

CryEngine 3 SDK Out now for free!

The engine is now available for free here.

Read the terms and conditions, but they sound pretty good for those that just want to tinker around with it.

To get started, the official documentation can be found here.

The community developed documentation, which is well worth a browse can be found here.

A simple guide to get started on creating a level can be found here.

More indepth knowledge can be found in the wiki here.

Now go and enjoy!